THE MISEDUCATION OF DOG & PUPPY SOCIALISATION
“Socialisation” is easily one of the most commonly misinterpreted and misunderstood terms in dog training. To raise the stakes even more, getting it wrong can lead to a whole slew of behaviour problems later on in your puppy or dog’s life. On the upside, getting it “right” isn’t difficult so long has you know what you’re doing!
What is Socialisation?
Socialisation is the process of introducing your puppy (or dog) to its surroundings. This should be done in a safe and gentle manner through low-stress exposure to novel experiences. Typically, exposures should be short with longer lengths of time being built up gradually.
When should you start Socialisation?
Optimally, socialisation starts as a puppy during the early development period, which is 3-16 weeks. This is also known as the critical socialisation period. This means that socialisation starts before you potentially even meet your puppy while they are with their mother and littermates. Puppies learn a great deal during the first 3-5 weeks (social cues, bite inhibition, hierarchy, fear,…) as it’s their most influential period of life. Puppies that are removed from their litter too early typically show social deficits.
After leaving the litter, you take over as guardian and hopefully continue to expose your puppy to novel experiences.
…but my dog’s no longer a puppy, is it too late?
Short answer? NO, it’s not too late! You may have to contend with a few more challenges, habits, or learned behaviours, but it is never to late to introduce your dog to new experiences. Continued adult dog socialisation is incredibly important, as similar to people, learning should be a life-long journey.
What happens when a dog is not properly socialised?
Dogs you have not been appropriately socialised often exhibit “anti-social” behaviours:
Reactivity, i.e. over-react/over-the-top responses to certain triggers
Fearfulness to things they do not know/understand
What does “good” look like?
Socialisation IS calmness and neutrality in distracting settings and the ability to “walk on by” while remaining focused on you. This can include around strangers, dogs, and in busy places to name a few.
Ambivalence and ignorance to new dogs/people
Settling and relaxing in busy places
The ability to observe and take in new experiences as opposed to reacting to them
Ability to stay under threshold and take direction from you, i.e. remain “under control”
Socalisation IS NOT allowing your dog to meet and greet every new dog or person they see at a dog park or out on the street.
Interacting with new dogs/people and ignoring you
On edge or overly excited behaviour in busy settings, inability to “simply exist”
Act first, ask questions later approach to new things.
To what SCENARIOS should I plan to get my dog socialised?
In truth, the best thing you can do is get creative! Think about experiences along the following parameters, and come up with as many combinations as you can and see if you can come up with something that hasn’t been listed!
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Having the opportunity to meet and see a variety of different people will mean having a dog that isn’t afraid of those who are different from anyone who doesn’t look like you….
Differently-abled folks
Different complexions
Different ages
Different genders
…people in uniforms, on varying apparatuses, behind counters, on ladders, behind glass windows, sitting down/standing up, jumping around, embracing and kissing, parents carrying babies,…
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Oh the places you can go!
To name a few…other people’s houses, cities, countrysides, parks, school yards, construction sites, train platforms, cafes/restaurants, stores, zoos, markets, traffic, boats, cars, traffic junctions, elevators, escalators,…
Empty or outside of busy dog parks!
If a place is dog-friendly, consider taking your dog.
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You may be surprised at this one, but teaching your dog neutrality around things is super important. Consider…
Statues, reflections, lights, smells, movements, other animals and more specifically, other dogs.
Things also includes clothing, tools and gear your dog may benefit from being familiar with, whether it’s here daily harness, that raincoat that only comes out when necessary, or a muzzle that you find you need when you take your dog to the vet with a painful injury.
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The world is full of so many noises and, with the sensivity to hearing that dogs have, many sounds can be overwhelming to your dog.
Machines
Door Bells
Alarms
Hairdryers
Nail clippers/sanders
Music and instruments (Live and recorded)
Ball games
And the big one…Bangs and FIREWORKS!
Desensitising and introducing your dog to sounds early and often will create a lot less stress and anxiety later in life when said sounds can not be avoided.
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Weather is something that we often take for granted, but different weather can be very startling the first time you experience it…don’t forget to take your dog or puppy out in the rain and snow in addition to the sunny and warm days.
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Different surfaces can be very daunting if you’ve never touched them before, so don’t forget to incorporate things such as:
Air grates on the sidewalk
Sand
Grass
Rubber
Suspension Bridges and other surfaces that shift/move
Treadmills/Moving Belts
Even ice or surfaces that have a bit more slick
Carpet/Rugs
Metal slides
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Yes! This also counts!
Have you thought about getting your dog used to being touched and participating in activites that involve being touched?
Ear and Teeth brushing
Nail clipping
Tail touching
Bathing
Collar grabs
Being carried
Putting on gear
Being placed onto their back
…and many more.
Can you do this with your dog? Can someone else?
How do I actually socialise my dog?
Now that you have your list of novel elements, you can practice “existing” around al the combinations you can think of with your puppy or dog. Socialisation in action looks like:
Calm training exercises with other neutral dogs:
Go for structured or social walks with other people and dogs where they do not interact when on lead…just co-exist. If off-lead, only do so with known and trusted entities that are under control and at a point where you know your dog can and will choose you over the excitement of the other elements (if this is not the case, your dog really should be on long line or lead until they are ready to be off-lead.)
Engagement with handler:
Play and train with or around various elements, but focus is between you and your dog and said elements remain as part of the background
Calm observations:
This can be as simple as sitting on a bench and providing positive reinforcement for doing nothing while taking in the sights.
Advocate for your dog:
Create space when approached by people or dogs you do not know and allow your dog to observe from a distance.
Need an Example?
I love this Socialisation Playlist by @marietrainsdogs, which starts with her socialisation scenario or element list in the first video!
A Few Final Notes…
The right time to start is now
…the sooner you start, the simpler and more rewarding life will be for both you and your dog!
This is a marathon, not a sprint
…the world is a big place, your dog or puppy does not have to meet it all at once!
Your puppy or dog should set the pace
…ultimately, this is about your dog so be patient and go at a pace they are comfortable with as overloading or doing too much too soon can have an adverse effect in the long run!
Postiive Reinforcement for the win!
…Your job is to ensure your dog has as many positive experiences as possible so make sure all of these experiences are backed up with ample rewards for the desired behaviours exhibited!
Remember that your goal is to think of all the different shapes and pictures that the world can make and try to give your dog or puppy as many unique snapshots as you can!
Are you still a bit puzzled about how to get started? Let us know if we can help you on your dog or puppy’s socialisation journey!
